The adding of new parts ....        

Water and Fuel Fillers

The  water and fuel fillers were added.  When this scan was made the 'scar' left by the removal of the original fuel filler had yet to be filled and cleaned up.

fillers2.jpg (4694 bytes)

Click here for a detailed description

bluelin2.gif (1878 bytes)

The numberboard hatch covers (two each end) were fashioned from Cannon and Company hood doors.  I used HD1002 but others will be suitable as well.  I had to 'sacrifice' only two Cannon doors to make the four hatch covers.   Before fitting the covers (which are a close interference fit inside the apertures cut as described earlier) I lightly arrised the edges of the apertures to provide a visual edge to the hatch covers.  I'm not sure if that has been quite enough yet and I might still have to scribe the join lines.  I hope not,  because I wanted avoid the risks of a 'wandering scriber'.  The shell ends might need a quick squirt with primer to sort out this issue.

hatch3.jpg (21575 bytes)

bluelin2.gif (1878 bytes)

Routine additions to shell

Ready to paint! - click for a collection of photos of detailed shell

Handrail replacement

I chose to replace the handrails for two reasons:

(1) I wanted a better scale appearance than the .022" thickness of the ones that came with the loco, and

(2) I have this quite strong conviction that nothing looks more like a metal handrail than does metal!rails2.jpg (34570 bytes)

For strength and resilience against damage during handling the model I chose to use phosphor bronze wire.  At a thickness of 0.4 mm (.015") it looks right to me.  I toyed with the idea of using Smokey Valley stanchions so that I could solder up the whole assemblies but found that the length of the SV stanchions was not quite compatible with P2K ones and the holes and nbw castings I had already fitted to the cab.

So I set out to use the original P2K stanchions and wire rails.  I nipped the rails off the P2K stanchions with sprue nippers and they required no further cleaning up.  I drilled the stanchions with a 0.3 mm drill (so they would be a tight fit on the 0.4 mm wire).  I had intended to make up a jig to do this,  but Jim Six had written that he had drilled plastic stanchions 'free hand' with a pin vice so I thought it worth a try.  It was easier than I expected.  All it required was a steady hand and (for me, at least) an Optivisor and the patience not to rush it.  I had no failures,  which was just as well because I had no spares!  I drilled from both sides to 'meet in the middle' I did have one or two wander a little but found that they could be straightened up with a bit of judicious reaming with the same drill bit.

The result of this process is shown in the photo.  All the rails and stanchions are just a push fit until after painting the model so there will be some straightening up to do when the stanchions are heat sealed into place. The section of rail in the centre of the end of each end will be snipped out after final assembly.  The moulded chain is not sufficient to ensure strength of the assembly during handling in the meantime. Oh, and if you spotted that handgrabs number two and three from the bottom are sticking out too far you are quite right - they are!   They won't be permanently fixed in place until after the paint and decals have been done.

After painting and finishing

The following parts were added after painting and finishing as described elsewhere:

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Updated 4 January 2001